Easter 2009: Cornwall

Kirill Spiridonov

(to read with russian accent)

Stayed at the Caravan-view caravan park, Sennen. Attended by Graham, Julia, Lily, Charles, Rob, Paul, Gareth and myself.

Nothing much happened on Thursday

Spent all day driving, the weather was bad anyway, so even though we contemplated to do a token route at Sennen Cove on arrival, when we actually arrived the cold, the wind and the rain made us retreat to the First and Last.

Friday the Bosigran Day

Ochre Slab Route 1 (VS) – Paul’s leading the scary slab pitch and I get the roof. Absolutely brilliant.

Doorpost (HS) – Queueing at the bottom, queueing at the belay ledge, people all but climbing on top of each other. Paul’s struggling to get the cam out, claims that I overcammed it, which I disagree, luckily a dude climbing just behind us takes it out for us. Anyway I think we both of us had our hopes too high for this ‘classic’ climb and were slightly disappointed.

Little Brown Jug (VS) – The gem of a climb. Paul got to lead the first and the last pitches, the good ones, with me leading the scrambling bit inbetween. Impressive lead, Paul!

Nameless (VS) – The perfect choice of a route when there’s only an hour or so left before dark. I am rushing to climb the first pitch, expecting some ledge for a belay, none comes, climbing on a bit more, then a bit more, run out of quickdraws, as well as coming across some unprotected slab with at least a 5a move just to get on it. This can’t be right, I’m thinking. So I’m setting up a hanging belay on couple of wires and bringing Paul up to break the news that I have no clue where we’re supposed to be going. Luckily it’s not my problem anymore, cause there’s no way to swap belays and it means it’s up to him now to find the way out. He manages it brilliantly and saves us all. It’s properly dark as we walk to the car park, I get the text from Charles that the dinner is ready. It makes me warm inside.

Charles and Graham – Did they climb on that day? They say they did, but I think they probably just went straight to the Star Inn in St Just.

Saturday, the day when we split up

Nothing sinister, just Graham and co. went to Sennen, and the rest of us went to Chair Ladder.

South Face Direct (VS) – I am climbing with Rob this time, Paul went with Charles to do the Diocese. We were the first party on the route, people were queueing up behind us, so it was especially satisfying to take time and go deliberately slowly, savoring every move and every situation of this magnificent route. It went just grand cause apparently climbing slowly is what both Rob and myself excel at. That and faffing at the belays.

Aerial (VS) – Last time (in 2007) I somehow managed to get lost on this one. This time i tried my best to stay on route, which wasn’t too hard with people from the adjacent buttress shouting directions. Thanks. I must say the traverse pitch was the real highlight of the day for me, simply breathtaking.

Paul’s pasta – Was total success – Still enough wine.

Easter Sunday

I made a culinary discovery. Peanut butter sandwich sprinkled with sugar tastes like snikers bar.

Scenic walk across somebody’s garden then along the coast to Pordenack Point. Interesting scramble down, which took longer for some people then for others.

Friends (VS) – Looks cruxy, said Gareth, looking from the bottom. It wasn’t. Sustained son of a bitch. The gear was good though, I tested it, twice.

Among other things the following events happened on that day:

  • Rope got snagged after abseil, twice.
  • I climbed Nut Route (S) to rescue the rope, only to find Charles and Graham at the top.
  • Backed off of an HS.
  • Backed off of a VDiff (Wrist Climb), cause Gareth wasn’t sure about the overhanging traverse, and I also lost interest because I already fell from there earlier.
  • I got bitten by a tick.

All in all quite a satisfying day.

Last day, way back

Stopped at Dewerstone. Routes climbed:

  • Fly on the Wall, Rob and I
  • Central Groove, Paul and Gareth
  • Gideon and Climbers Club Direct, Graham and Charles

Then Paul made another heroic effort to drive us back home, with a brief pub stop at Blagdon. Once again good use of Good Beer Guide.

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